IMPORTANT PSP OWNERS INFORMATION
PSP REPLACEMENT PARTS

I've been fixing PSP's since they came out and I've come across a lot of different types of PSP
problems. Most of the repairs I'm asked to do are the result of standard wear and tear or general
damage from the console getting dropped or wet. As time goes by though I've been seeing more and
more PSP's come in with non-Sony parts, either already installed by another PSP repair service or
sent along as an extra - and I also get a lot of stories as to what people were trying to do and where
everything went wrong. For instance somebody might install a new power switch PCB and all of a
sudden the PSP won't charge anymore, something that appears to be an entirely separate problem.

There's two main reasons at-home PSP repair's often don't work out - one is that the PSP
dis-assembly information you find around the Internet is often incomplete or just flat wrong at certain
points. The second reason though is the pitiful quality of the new parts they're trying to work with and
no amount of information or experience is going to help with this. After PSP's had been available for a
year or so companies in China started making very cheap after-market replacement parts for them.
Some of these parts are OK now, like LCD screens usually, and some are literally worthless, like
cheap analog assemblies which are everywhere unfortunately- but there's no way for the average Joe
to know the difference between a good part and a bad one which is why I've put this information here.

I completely understand a person wanting or needing to save a buck and for a person to look at my
PSP part prices and think they've found a great deal when they see what appears to be the same thing
on Ebay or around the Internet for a quarter of the price. I took some time myself to get on Ebay and
shop for PSP parts like a normal person would do and it's pretty clear to me now why so many people
are having such a problem with this. There was one single person on Ebay at the time that sold
genuine Sony PSP parts and even then it was only as a sideline. Every single vendor except him was a
company either physically in Hong Kong or China itself or selling the exact same parts in the USA
under a distribution company name.
THIS IS THE REAL THING. A GENUINE FACTORY ORIGINAL SONY PSP-1001 POWER SWITCH
PCB. NOTE THAT BOTH THE GREEN AND ORANGE LED LIGHTS ARE IN A SINGLE CASE.
AND THESE ARE THE COPIES - NOTE THE COLOR DIFFERENCE TOO, IF YOU SEE A BLUE OR BRIGHT FLUORESCENT GREEN PCB
FOR SALE THIS IS WHAT YOU'RE LIKELY TO GET. I HAVEN'T COME ACROSS ANY CHEAP  PSP-2001 OR PSP-3001 MODEL
POWER SWITCH PCB'S YET BUT I'M SURE IT'S JUST A MATTER OF TIME.
SEVERAL EBAY AND GENERAL INTERNET VENDORS HAD PICTURES OF A SONY PART
BUT WERE ACTUALLY SELLING COPIES.  I WOULD CONSIDER ANYONE SELLING
LARGE AMOUNTS OF PSP PARTS TO BE SUSPECT AS REAL PSP PARTS COME OUT OF  
DISASSEMBLED PSP'S ONLY. SONY ABSOLUTELY DOES NOT SELL OR PROVIDE ANY
PSP REPLACEMENT PARTS TO ANYBODY - INCLUDING PROFESSIONAL REPAIR
SHOPS LIKE ME. THE ACTUAL FACTORY MANUFACTURERS OF THESE PARTS ARE ON
CONTRACT TO SONY ALSO AND SELLING SONY'S TECHNOLOGY TO OTHER PEOPLE
IS NOT AN OPTION. ALL THESE COPIED PARTS ARE REVERSE-ENGINEERED WHICH
ISN'T A BAD THING IN ITSELF BUT I'VE YET TO SEE A SINGLE PART THAT KEPT TO
THE SAME HIGH QUALITY STANDARDS THAT SONY DEMANDED IN THE FIRST PLACE.

OTHER COMMON AFTER-MARKET PSP PARTS - THESE AREN'T AS OBVIOUSLY MESSED UP TO THE NAKED EYE BUT THE
PICTURE SETS BELOW SHOW THE MAIN PROBLEMS IN CLOSE UP.  ALL THREE PARTS ARE LAYERED PLASTIC DATA CABLES
IN ONE FORM OR ANOTHER - THE DIRECTIONAL PAD, BUTTON BAR, AND MAIN CABLE. EACH ONE FITS INTO IT'S
RESPECTIVE CONNECTOR ON THE PSP MOTHERBOARD OR THE POWER SWITCH PCB. THESE CONNECTORS ARE ALL RATHER
FRAGILE AND TRYING TO CRAM SOMETHING INTO IT THAT DOESN'T FIT WILL ALMOST ALWAYS DAMAGE THE OTHER
COMPONENT TOO.
The top set of pictures is the end of a genuine Sony cable and below it is the copy. The brown part in the first two is a slightly
thicker piece of plastic glued to the end of the cable that makes it easier to insert into it's connector. The copy has the same
piece glued on except it's usually clear, crooked and/or too wide. The black lines are the data traces themselves, each one
performs a certain action, like up, down, left, right etc and when they're all glommed together it definitely causes a problem.
HERE ARE EXAMPLES OF ALL THREE SIDE-BY-SIDE AND IF YOU'VE MADE IT THIS FAR YOU KNOW WHICH ONE'S ARE THE
SONY'S. MOST ALL OF THE AFTER-MARKET DATA CABLES ARE GREEN TOO FOR SOME REASON, THERE ARE NO GREEN
ORIGINAL SONY CABLES SO IT'S EASY TO SPOT. ANOTHER CLUE IS THAT THE COPIES WILL ALWAYS COME AS A FLAT PIECE
OF PLASTIC  WHICH OF COURSE SAVES ON POSTAGE. PEELING A SONY DATA CABLE OFF THE FRAME IS VERY LIKELY TO
CAUSE DAMAGE SO ANY PROFESSIONAL SELLING PROPER SONY PARTS WILL ALWAYS MAIL THE WHOLE THING.
BUTTON BAR CABLE                                         MAIN CABLE                                  DIRECTIONAL PAD CABLE
Sony originally designed a PSP to do certain things like play games and music. Over time they've created better ways of doing
for the fact that if you don't do the updates exactly right you can completely ruin your console. Updating the firmware version
memory is called the firmware and Sony has set up a few different ways to update it. One method is to download the
information off of the Sony website through your computer and on to your PSP memory card, put the card in your PSP and
then run the update. This does get a bit complicated though and not everyone has the right computer equipment. The most
common updating method is the one that everybody has access to which is the UMD games and movies themselves. When new
games come out they're pre-loaded with the newest firmware version and
you have to load this version before you can play
the new game.
This is where all the trouble starts - especially for kids that have no clue what's going on.

Many people have bought PSP's for their younger kids which is fine when the kids are just playing their games. Sooner or
later though the kid's going to get a new game or borrow one from a friend and all this weird stuff will automatically come up
on the screen telling them what to press and "accept or reject" etc. They'll press a few buttons trying to get it to load the
game like normal and when they eventually give up and turn it off it'll never turn back on again. The green power light comes
on for about 15 seconds or so and goes off by itself - nothing else happens at all as the console's basically not a PSP anymore
- just a bunch of microchips and components with no "brain".  Lot's of other things can cause a bad update though too so it's
not just a kid's problem. If the PSP accidentally gets dropped during an update, a power surge, the battery falls out, the UMD
disc skips, all this results in the same interrupted update and a bricked PSP.

The good news here is that the computer hackers who mess with video game firmware for fun have come up with a way to
"un-brick" many PSP's. Almost all PSP-1001's and probably just over half of the 2001's can be unbricked at this point, no
3001's and no PSP Go's (as of 4/26/11). I offer PSP un-bricking/firmware replacement for $49 which includes the other
PSP maintenance services and cleaning like I do with all the other repairs. This is on the
"Repair Requests" page if you
already have a bricked PSP but that's not what this is about.  All I want to achieve here is to pass on the information as to just
how important it is to understand PSP updating and to follow the instructions
to the letter. It's all in your PSP owner's manual
if you still have it or you can get it at
http://www.us.playstation.com/psp along with Sony's latest firmware download.

For those of you with small children awareness is key. Familiarize yourself with how this all works and whenever you buy a
new game just make sure someone familiar with the procedure loads the game first.  
PSP FIRMWARE VERSION UPDATES
PSP-1001 aftermarket power switch pcb sample
PSP-1001 aftermarket power switch pcb sample
PSP-1001 aftermarket power switch PCB sample
PSP-1001 main cable
PSP-1001 button bar cables
PSP-1001 directional pad cables
I was originally baffled by the high Ebay feedback ratings for the vendors that sell this sort of thing as I know for a fact how
often these parts cause operational or install problems. I see though now that most companies ask people to hurry up and
enter their feedback, immediately upon arrival of the new part preferably, and in return the seller gives good feedback.
Likewise - if you enter bad feedback they'll do the same to you and there's nothing you can do about it. Installing the new
part takes quite a while for a beginner so by the time the weekend rolls around and they have their new part installed it's a
major pain to go back and change their feedback, if they have the option to do so at all.  For the folks that do wait until
afterwards almost all are beginners and will doubt their own work rather than the new part. There's proper good ethics in not
blaming someone else for what may be your own mistake but the outcome in this instance is a mass of inaccurate information
for the consumer - the exact opposite of what eBay meant to create in the first place I'd hope.  eBay started off as a good
thing and in this instance anyway it's just de-volved into "you give me good feedback and I'll give you your's" .

INFORMATION FOR THOSE THAT HAVE ALREADY BOUGHT AN
AFTERMARKET / OEM / THIRD-PARTY PSP PART
LCD SCREENS
Most of the after-market LCD screens available today are OK. They used to come with all sorts of line and circle
manufacturing imperfections but they seem to have done away with most of those now. There's still a few things to
know though before installing one. For PSP-1001 LCD screens you'll probably need to put a piece of electrical tape over
the resistors and what not just like there is on your original LCD screen. You can also just peel the tape off of the old
screen and put it on the new one. These help protect it from water damage and from accidentally making a bad contact
model it is and the new one won't.
This is a very important part of the screen. The gasket not only serves to keep dust
and grit off of the inner screen it also helps protect it from breakage so please take the extra time to put it on. PSP-1001
models have a separate metal gasket frame that goes around the outside of the screen. The old gasket won't just peel
off of a 1001 so you'll need to remove and install the entire metal frame.  PSP-2001 model screens do have a peel off
the outer screen once you put it all back together so it's important to get it right. PSP-3001's also have a peel off gasket
peel both layers up instead of just the gasket. 3001 LCD screens are also painfully easy to break. The glass layer of the
screen is
literally paper thin so absolutely do not press on it anywhere except around the white plastic edge. This is very
important also when re-attaching the button bar the goes across the bottom of the screen. Only press on it at the very
ends as the glass underneath it is even thinner than the rest of the screen. This is why I don't sell do-it-yourself kits for
the 3001 LCD screen. I have extra's on hand so it's no big deal if I accidentally break one myself but for most people it's
a complete loss and an expensive one at that.

All aftermarket PSP LCD screens will sometimes come with a very thin protective plastic film on it. This is a good thing
but I see that a lot of people don't seem to realize what it is and that it needs to come off before you can see the screen
properly.
NOTE: There's not always going to be a protective cover and I don't want to accidentally tell someone to peel
the top layer of their LCD screen off.
If it doesn't peel off extremely easily just leave it alone - sometimes it's hard to tell
if there's a protective film or not if they were applied at the factory so if you're not sure just barely test it in the corner
and it'll quickly be obvious whether there's one on there. If you've purchased an LCD screen from someone that was
supposed to be new and you find lines and scratches all over it chances are it's just the protective cover doing it's job.

Another thing to watch for is excess glue from the packaging stuck to the ends and edges of the connector cables. This
comes off easily with alcohol or sometimes just a good rub but it's important to get it off before trying to insert the cable
into the connector. The glue rarely comes off inside the connectors but there is a big chance of breaking the connector
itself trying to jam it in there or latch it down when there's glue on it. Something to watch for in all models is that the
thinner backlight cable connector is extremely soft plastic and very easy to break. The aftermarket backlights have
never been installed in a PSP before so the cable isn't "pre-dented" like the Sony backlights are. This means it takes
extra pressure to close the backlight latch down on it and quite often the latch will break off first. There's no easy fix for
this other than being aware of the problem and if at all possible try to apply pressure to the front hinge-end of the black
backlight latch rather than just pressing down on the back half where it actually latches into place. With no "pre-dents"
the hinge end is taking all the pressure of denting the cable. Gently flicking the backlight latch towards closed will bring
it to a bit past half-way usually and very gently using the tip of your screwdriver or something from there on will give
you control of exactly where the pressure's applied first - front to back. That said, if your latch comes off in one piece
you may still be able to get it to work by just pressing the latch back on over the top and taping in down with electrical
tape. Another common problem I see unfortunately is people accidentally tearing their backlight connectors completely
off. It's still usually fixable though by any professional so it's rarely a complete loss.
FACEPLATES
The cheaper after market faceplates are often warped out of shape or just badly made in the first place and therefore
and level of the analog assembly itself. All you can do is see exactly where it sits in your original faceplate and try to get
The cheaper after market faceplates are often warped out of shape or just badly made in the first place and therefore it
at posts down to get it lower. All five case screws need to be in too when you test it out as these keep the faceplate at
won't fit properly. For a PSP-1001 it will almost always mess up the analog actions and the problem is with the angle
they don't have the same analog assembly set up but the rear casing is a different animal altogether. About 80% of the
after-market PSP Slim rear cases I've seen have a problem with keeping the UMD door closed once there's a game
inside. There's no way to get around this other than opting for a proper Sony rear case to go with your new faceplate
and UMD door. Most people just keep the door taped shut so they can still play their games until they get a better rear
case put on.
UMD DRIVES AND LASERS
An after-market UMD laser, by itself or in a drive, will almost always have an extra blob of solder on it to protect from
static charge during transit.  You have to de-solder it otherwise the laser won't work at all and they rarely point this out
for some reason. You'll see a small blob of solder on the top side of the laser cable near the motherboard connector end.
Take this off and you'll see two half-circles underneath. Make sure ALL the solder is out from between the two sides so
there's no electrical contact made and it should work. Do be careful not to melt the cable while you do this though, the
BUTTON SETS
Cheap button sets often have extra plastic around the seams and edges. These are supposed to be filed off or preferably
not there in the first place with a proper extrusion set-up. Quite often after-market buttons have much wider legs too
that will cause the buttons to jam up or stick. All you have to do though is get a pen knife and carve the excess plastic off
before install. Having an original Sony button to compare with is the best way to get it right the first time.
REAR CASES AND UMD DOORS
For PSP-1001 models there's a latch sticking up out of the PSP itself which is supposed to slide over the top of a catch
just inside the front lip of the outer plastic UMD door. For aftermarket UMD doors this catch is almost always not
attached quite right resulting in the latch sliding in between it and the plastic door rather than grabbing on. If you have
your old UMD door handy and a soldering iron you can switch them out but it can get messy working with the melted
plastic. If the new door catch is just not attached securely and firmly pressed against the front lip of the door you can
usually fix this by touching a hot soldering iron to the catch just enough to to press it down a bit deeper into the plastic.  
You may also need to manually push the metal latch on the PSP a bit forwards or backwards to get it to where it's
striking the catch just right. You can't just pop the new door on either, there's two internal retaining screws inside that
prevent this from happening and you'll need to take the LCD screen out to get to them. If your original door has broken
off one or both of the plastic door "hinges" are probably stuck in place by the retaining screws or loose inside the UMD
drive ready to jam up your laser gears one day. Trying to put a new door in with a broken hinge already in the hole will
usually result in breaking the new door hinge off as well.

PSP-2001 and 3001's have a completely different UMD door set-up and if you have one that won't fit right, close all the
way, or stay closed, there really isn't anything that I know of that you can do to fix/adjust it unfortunately. Most people
just make-do by keeping it taped shut until they can get it fixed properly.
DATA CABLES - BUTTON BAR/DIRECTIONAL PAD/MAIN CABLE
I can buy after-market button bar and directional pad cables for about a dime each. China is producing absolute bottom
quality PSP parts for the US market and they cause no end of trouble for the unsuspecting customer. I have close-up
pictures of these at the top of the page and you can see that the biggest difference is where they stick the thicker piece
of plastic onto the end of the data cable which is supposed to make it easier to insert it into the cable connector. If you
excess plastic off first. You have to be very careful though to not cut into the actual data cable itself but sometimes you
can get them to fit and I'd guess about 60% of them will operate properly once you do.
PSP-1001 ANALOG / JOYSTICK ASSEMBLY
If you've ended up with a crummy analog assembly there's really not much you can do to make it any better or off center
- due to an oversight or the bottom cover and metal bracket not being on tight enough. Sometimes you can substitute one
of your original Sony analog parts so if you still have your old one on hand you might as well try. The analog assembly
has two internal chambers - one on top containing the thumbpad stem and the spring around it that keeps it going back
to center show what's inside the bottom half and it's easy to get into by just taking the metal bracket off and removing
the plastic cover. You can click on each picture to see a larger image which will give you an idea of what it's supposed to
look like in there. If your old analog assembly wasn't too horribly worn out or damaged you may be able to swap out the
assembly you can try swapping out just the one or all three removable internal components. Check also that the whitish
square cover does in fact have four holes in the corners in order for it to fit properly over the posts on the black plastic
frame. You can carefully poke through with a very sharp blade if needed to get the white part sitting completely flat
against the black frame. Press hard on the metal bracket sides when you put it all back together - if they're not latching
on firmly to the black plastic tab part of the frame it'll just all fall out of place again. The best you can hope for here is
just a temporary fix though to see if you can get any use out of it at all until you get your hands on a better quality
assembly.

the analog assembly to work. It sits directly underneath the four gold squares on the analog assembly inside a slot in the
metal LCD frame and the gold wires inside
have to run up and down, not side to side. No analog assembly will work
without it at all and in the case of a 1001 model the outer case screws all have to be in place too for the assembly to sit
on top of the clear contact correctly. If your faceplate's broken in that corner or the screws are missing that's probably
why your analog stopped working right in the first place.

PSP-2001 analog assemblies have the same basic internal structure but the clear contact goes over the four gold
squares on the assembly itself. PSP-3001's also have a similar internal set up but no contact - they have a data cable
instead.
A BAD POWER SWITCH
PCB IN A PSP-1001
CAN CAUSE PROBLEMS
WITH THE VOLUME,
HOME, BACKLIGHT,
SCREEN, START, HOLD,
SELECT, TRIGGERS,
AND ALL OTHER
BUTTON FUNCTIONS AS
WELL AS JUST FLAT
NOT TURNING THE
CONSOLE ON OR OFF.

CLICK ON THE
SMALLER
PICTURES TO
SEE A LARGER
AND MORE
DETAILED
IMAGE
I understand this may sound like a bunch of sour grapes or a sales pitch but you can see for yourself below  just what I'm
talking about. I'm here to make a buck myself of course and the existence of these crummy parts is actually good for my
business as people end up sending their broken consoles in for me to fix after their own failed attempt at home. I'm not a
youngster anymore though and as I've spent plenty of time and money on the receiving end of various rip-off's over the years I
really don't want to take advantage of other people's misfortunes or lack of information.

I put this page up as a good place for someone to start before spending a dime on any sort of PSP part or repair service. If you
do end up sending it to a professional for repair always find out first whether they use real Sony parts or not - the pictures
below give a good indication of the differences between the two.